6210 Intermittent Receive Problem

[ElectricW]

I've looked and read postings on here and I've found good advice but not directly applicable to my problem.

I have a 6210. It receives a good signal on 900Mhz, but on 1800 it's very iffy. The signal strength wavers, dissappears, re-appears. I have done a network scan, all networks are found. The phone will ring out, and accept calls provided I have reception a the time (obviously).

I've swapped the antenna with a known good one. The antenna contacts look fine. I've got the Nokia service manual to guide me.

Before I start poking around - has anyone got any pointers? I don't want to go poking, unsolding, heating etc if I am hopelessly on the wrong track.

Could this be antenna switch? - Should I heat particular chips?

I am waiting for my flasher cables and stuff to arrive, so I can't run EEprom tests yet - should I wait and do s/w checks before touching the hardware or is this indicative of hardware?

Any pointers would be appreciated - Thanks for reading this far!

ElectricW

[ElectricW]

I fixed it using the "double sticky pad" technique on the Hagar - this was fine. So I decided to heat the Hagar.

I used an electric heat gun with a reducing nozzle. However it was far too hot, (and the heat was still too wide I suspect) the solder ran, the Hagar moved & then set. - The solder ran out from underneath shorting pins, a capacitor/resistor came unsoldered, and solder ran through the board and out the other side!

Now I have a scrap chassis!

I keep reading about heating these chips. What is the best way of doing it?
(apart from buying an expensive Surface mount work station). Could someone please put up some details on this sort of repair please?

I don't want to melt all my repairs before I've started!

ElectricW

[iecep]

You had a signal dropping problem-that was a common problem.try to change the crystal clock oscillator of the power ic-i had fixed one case on 3310 before.Also observe the tone tempo of your phone tones if it sounds to slow compare to normal one then the audio ic might not functioning well.another cause of signal dropping is when u have a defective rf PA this evident when u got NO ACCESS response one you request your current phone operator.I hope u have an idea. :-P


I've looked and read postings on here and I've found good advice but not directly applicable to my problem.

I have a 6210. It receives a good signal on 900Mhz, but on 1800 it's very iffy. The signal strength wavers, dissappears, re-appears. I have done a network scan, all networks are found. The phone will ring out, and accept calls provided I have reception a the time (obviously).

I've swapped the antenna with a known good one. The antenna contacts look fine. I've got the Nokia service manual to guide me.

Before I start poking around - has anyone got any pointers? I don't want to go poking, unsolding, heating etc if I am hopelessly on the wrong track.

Could this be antenna switch? - Should I heat particular chips?

I am waiting for my flasher cables and stuff to arrive, so I can't run EEprom tests yet - should I wait and do s/w checks before touching the hardware or is this indicative of hardware?

Any pointers would be appreciated - Thanks for reading this far!

ElectricW

[iecep]

Used the right equipment in repairing.For ic removal use the smd rework hot air it has an ajustable heat and nozzle.Another we often used flux paste as an aid to transfer heat equally on any ic for quick removal and avoid scrapage of ur pcb board.Ok... :smile:

I fixed it using the "double sticky pad" technique on the Hagar - this was fine. So I decided to heat the Hagar.

I used an electric heat gun with a reducing nozzle. However it was far too hot, (and the heat was still too wide I suspect) the solder ran, the Hagar moved & then set. - The solder ran out from underneath shorting pins, a capacitor/resistor came unsoldered, and solder ran through the board and out the other side!

Now I have a scrap chassis!

I keep reading about heating these chips. What is the best way of doing it?
(apart from buying an expensive Surface mount work station). Could someone please put up some details on this sort of repair please?

I don't want to melt all my repairs before I've started!

ElectricW

[marky752000]

You should heat the Hager and the ccont and cobba for that matter for about 20 seconds, when reflowing.

But you don't want the air flow to be too strong or as happen to yo you will blow other componets off the board. as for the tempreture. around 300 degrees should be ok, but that said most hot air stations don't have tempreture in degrees ( I know mine doesn't ) its about finding what works for you.

The best thing to remember is, if its too cold you can go back and do it again. if its too hot then you have problems.

Best Regards


Mark